‘Ugly’ footwear has been one of the buzziest trends in fashion. Finally, for the sake of our feet, functionality trumped frivolity as comfy, not-so-cute shoes got their foot in the door.
First, there were Balenciaga’s clompy Triple S Logo sneakers. Then Bottega Veneta’s oddly shaped line-up of square-toed heels and Puddle Boots.
Hiking sandals went from dorky camping holidays with dad to the runways of Louis Vuitton and Chanel, Aussie classic UGG reached new heights with a platform sole and Birkenstocks, the OG ugly slide, continue to be a fashion favourite. Even Crocs — arguably the ugliest shoe to ever live (or walk) — became fashion-worthy, with ‘it girls’ running around town in the foamy, eco-conscious clog (even bedazzling them with Jibbitz Shoe Charms).
But the latest ugly shoe to filter through the fashion set is Hoka, a high-performance, super-stacked trainer made for mountains and loved by serious runners the world over.
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Founded in Annecy, France by Nicolas Mermoud and Jean Luc Diard, the French pair were former Salomon execs (another ugly sneaker to captivate fashion), so you could say their fondness for ‘ugly’ footwear was in-built. Mermoud and Diard wanted a shoe that allowed them to run downhill faster with support, so they created a style with an oversized outsole that had more cushioning than other running shoes at the time. In 2009, Hoka was born.
Initially embraced by ultramarathon runners for their unique cushioning with minimal weight, all kinds of runners (even walkers) quickly followed suit. Now, 13 years later, the comfort-first trainer has captured the fashion Zeitgeist, arguably the coolest “ugly” shoe of the moment.
So how did a trail-friendly, performance sneaker end up in fashion’s biggest circles? Celebrity endorsements, for one.
When eternal dreamboat Harry Styles wore a pair of Hoka Cliftons last month, we suddenly became very invested in the chunky, clunky sneaker. Posting a selfie to Instagram in March, Styles wore the Hoka Clifton 8 in bright yellow ombré (along with a One Direction t-shirt, cheeky Harry).
Styles is just one of a slew of celebs who love the smart running shoes. Emily Ratajkowski, also has a pair, along with fellow ‘it girls’ Bella Hadid and Kylie Jenner. Even the leader of Goop herself was seen running around Los Angeles in a pair — and if it’s good enough for Gwyneth, it’s good enough for us.
But celebrity appeal — and capturing an entirely new, not-particularly athletic audience — was an unintentional silver lining for the brand.
“We aren’t building products for the likes of Bella Hadid, but if they’re wearing them anyway we aren’t going to complain,” Hoka’s director of lifestyle product, Travis Wiseman, told Highsnobiety.
“If we have these types of connections, we want to further strengthen that connection, whether it’s through different colourways, or maybe tweaks in style — all the while keeping things true to Hoka.”
Along with big celebrity names, collaborations have also been important in Hoka’s success. The brand has creatively partnered with luxury fashion powerhouse, Moncler, along with Outdoor Voices, Engineered Garments, Opening Ceremony, Bodega, and thisisneverthat — proving its high fashion appeal, too.
“There’s definitely been collaborations we’ve done that have been conservative efforts to get into the lifestyle space, but it’s all come from consumers having an innate interest in our brand,” Wiseman said.
And while consumers are definitely interested, it can take a while to become a believer.
I first spotted the shoes on a friend last year, and instantly, I was repelled. Awkwardly shaped? Obnoxiously chunky? No, thanks. Now, a year on, I live in my Bondi 8’s, a fully-fledged Hoka convert. So, why the one-eighty? Well, it all comes down to a feeling.
Like a really good, supportive hug for your feet, walking in a pair of Hoka’s is like walking on cloud nine. Literally. Thanks to a meticulously engineered, enhanced cushion midsole, every Hoka step makes for a smooth, soft, stable ride – every time.
They’re so supportive, Hoka is backed by podiatrists around the world, with a range of styles said to be helpful for people with foot pain, arthritis and tarsal tunnel syndrome. Their maximum cushioning has a dual effect: it decreases pressure under the heel and the ball of the foot, while its “rocker sole” acts to decrease joint motion in the foot providing optimum stability (something other cushioned shoes have failed to do in the past).
With that inherent ugly-cool aesthetic, designer collaborations and the most famous fans in the world, Hoka’s rise to the fashion top is only natural. It’s even available on luxury e-tailer, Net-a-Porter – and when the fashion powerhouse includes a brand in its designer Rolodex, you know you’ve made it.
As we continue to ride out nostalgic normcore trends as 90s fashion and dad fits (or, more specifically, Adam Sandler fits), Hoka clearly isn’t going anywhere. And given how comfortable they are, we couldn’t be happier. Long live ugly, functional, ortho-friendly shoes.